RARE c. 1940 black Saltaire swing coat w/ ribbon detail
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Vintage black swing coat with Saltaire alpaca-blend fabric
C. 1939–1941*
This is an exceedingly rare, museum quality, piece (a similar Saltaire coat from the same time period sold on First Dibs for $1050)
Fitted bodice with flared skirt that falls below the knee
Extra panels in back create the swing effect
Sleeves bellow out then taper at the wrist (a more subtle bishop's sleeve)
Narrowed shoulders so the sleeves lift a bit at the shoulders
Silk scalloped trim around collar
Buttons are plastic with fabric centers
Interior belt and loop to keep the coat in place
Alpaca blend (Saltaire made alpaca-silk blends and alpaca-cotton blends, and I feel what I think is cotton in the fabric, but it could be heavy silk)
Lined in heavy black silk satin
Impeccable tailoring: bound buttonholes, waist reinforced with heavy cotton, hand-stitching inside cuffs, etc
Purchased at Osborne's Ladies' Wear in Red Deer, Alberta
3-season coat
**See comments for detailed history**
Estimated to be a size 4; check measurements:
Shoulder width: 13.5" (narrowed for effect with sleeves)
Back width: 17.75"
Waist: 32"
Sleeve length: 25.5"
Length from nape: 43"
Model images are AI generated
Tags: vintage, luxury, quiet luxury, swing coat, 1930s, 1940s, Saltaire, alpaca, silk, lined, evening coat, day coat, event, classic, monochrome, British, museum quality, 3-season, midi coat
9 Comments

madscloset2
Osborne's Ladies' Wear began in 1932 in Vulcan, AB; moved to Red Deer 1939–1975. They carried ready-made clothing from a number of well-known and luxury brands
May 04Reply

madscloset2
The coat is likely from the store's initial period in Red Deer as there is a typo on the label ("ladie's" instead of "ladies'") that was corrected in its December '39 and later advertisements and phone book entry
May 04Reply

madscloset2
The shoulders are only lightly padded (as the war progressed, shoulders became sharper, more militaristic)
May 04Reply

madscloset2
The degree of hand-stitching suggests an earlier period
- Swing coats were popular in the 1930s with ads such as "Join the Swing to National Values"
- This Saltaire label was in use from 1930 to 1960
May 04Reply

madscloset2
It was manufactured using very expensive Saltaire fabric; British in origin, it suggests the time period prior to rationing in Canada (that began in 1942) when our economy was booming and Canadians were encouraged to "buy British" to aid their wartime economy
May 04Reply

madscloset2
The coat was likely manufactured in western Canada: there are no manufacturer or union labels, and while eastern Canadian clothing manufacturers were almost all unionized by the 1940s, western Canadian clothing manufacturing was not unionized until the 1950s
May 04Reply

madscloset2
The use of hem tape also generally indicates North American manufacture
- There are no fabric content or care labels; text-based labelling came into use in the 1950s (though there was no consistency then)
May 04Reply

madscloset2
Saltaire was one of most famous mill towns in the UK (and is now a World Heritage Site); it rose to fame for the mill's innovative use of alpaca wool via techniques developed by its founder, Titus Salt
May 04Reply

madscloset2
By mixing the alpaca with silk, "Salt developed first a fine, glossy yarn and then the techniques and machinery to turn it into cloth. He began producing Alpaca Orleans, a cloth so fine that Queen Victoria herself kept two alpaca llamas at Windsor and sent their fleeces to Salt to be turned into cloth. It would make Salt’s fortune." In addition to using a silk warp, Salt would later mix the alpaca on a cotton warp for a heavier fabric.
May 04Reply
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