Barbarian Days A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
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Bought used. Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography.
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
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