2005 Lanvin by Alber Elbaz Plunge Neck Black Satin Velvet Necklace Dress 38

This artfully deconstructed dress is prime example of his design acumen. Made from a weighty satin that drapes like a drink of water, the dress is an unusual blend of undone and haute couture. Constructed with unfinished and reversed seam allowances, the plunging neckline and arm openings have soft edges that contrast with the luster of the fabric. A combination of pleats and gathers curve up to meet the base of the neckline, forming a modified empire waistline that pulls the hem up along with it. The understated high-low hem is turned and finished. Pleats extend around the waist, with hidden pockets integrated into side seams. A center back opening is fitted with an eclectic variety of crystal, pearl, and satin buttons, heightening the tension between carefully planned and random. Elbaz finishes the ensemble with a seemingly small thing, but the coiled velvet necklace transforms the beauty of the rose into something dark and temperamental.